Kawaguchi Asama Shrine: A peaceful retreat in the Yamanashi Prefecture

 

During my travels in Japan, the area that I loved the most was the Fuji Highlands in Yamanashi Prefecture. Apart from being a tourist destination, there were plenty of ways to enjoy tranquility and solitude in lush green environments with a spiritual atmosphere.  One good example was the Kawaguchi Asama Shrine, located close to  Lake Kawaguchiko.

Like many other tourists, my aim was to get a good view of Mt Fuji from a spot accessible from this shrine, and I had therefore underestimated the beauty of the place itself.

Kawaguchi Asama Shrine and its giant cedars

The entrance to the shrine can be reached after a 20- minute walk from the nearest bus stop at the Kawaguchiko Music Forest Museum. This stop is part of the Red Sightseeing Bus route, one of the most popular tourist routes in the Kawaguchi area. Still, there were very few tourists at the shrine, and I wondered why- this place has everything to offer if you are looking for a calm and serene atmosphere.

Entrance to the Kawaguchi Asama Shrine

The giant Japanese cedar trees around the shrine were the highlight. A few of them are over 1,200 years old! Two trees growing side by side (futahashira) are believed to bring luck in matchmaking. As one of the many 'Asama' shrines dedicated to Mt. Fuji, the deity worshipped here represents the goddess of volcanoes and Mt. Fuji. This site is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site as a part of "Fujisan, sacred place and source of artistic inspiration". An annual festival is celebrated here, which I missed during my visit. Nevertheless, I preferred the quiet creaking of the ancient cedars than any celebration at that moment.

After spending some time at the shrine, I began my ascent to Tenku-no Torii, which offers a beautiful view of Mt. Fuji. I had discovered this spot on Instagram, and a few minutes into the climb, I realized that many influencers had probably driven up the hill instead. However, this was the closest I had been to nature in the past few days, so I gave it my all.  The weather was ideal after the rain, and my only concern was that clouds might block the view of Mt. Fuji from the top.

The start of the trail from the shrine

The path was slightly tiring and slippery, especially since I wasn't well prepared for a post-rain hike. Still the view of Mt. Fuji from the top was something I absolutely didn't want to miss—especially on a day with a clear sky! There were no cedar trees along the way, which disappointed me a little. I saw a few tourists here and there, and certainly some at the top, but far fewer than I had expected. The relative quiet made the climb more enjoyable.

Trail to the Tenku-no Torii

After about 30 to 45 minutes, I reached the Torii gates, which have been a place of worship since 2019. No wonder it's called Tenku-no Torii, meaning "Torii gate in the sky". From here, one can get a picturesque view of Mt. Fuji framed perfectly through the Torii gates. The aim behind this spot was to build a place of worship at a distance (yohai), reached through climbing (tohai) and spiritual training (shugen). I loved this aspect of the shrine—the notion that ultimate worship could be attained through effort and connection with nature.

Tenku-no Torii with Mt. Fuji in the background

Of course, once you reach the top, a picture of yourself with this perfect backdrop is mandatory! 😉 Although I was slightly annoyed that access to this "private land" required a fee, I was ultimately happy—it was well worth the visit. I was lucky to see Mt. Fuji in all its glory before the clouds swallowed the scene a little later. I even managed to capture a picture of the towering Torii with Mt. Fuji in the background—just like a Windows wallpaper 💗

After hiking back down the trail, I spent some time by the small garden near the shrine (not a Zen garden—I always cringe when influencers call it that!). I even considered staying longer, as this turned out to be the best part of my time in Yamanashi Prefecture. 

While most tourists come here just for the view of Mt. Fuji, I felt something more. This place wasn't even on my bucket list, but it ended up becoming one of my most memorable experiences.

The historic buildings of Cesky Krumlov

 

In this post, I describe some of the highlights that I found as interesting while visiting the township of Cesky Krumlov (Český Krumlov) in the Czech Republic. Situated to the north of the town as a series of buildings, the State Castle, preserving many historical artifacts and being listed as an important UNESCO Heritage Site, was built and modified from the 14th to 19th century. The tower and each of the five courtyards took me through the Gothic and Renaissance history of the castle and the town itself.

View of the State Castle Tower from one of the streets

After the courtyards lie the castle grounds, which was nice to have a stroll during early spring. The garden, built in the 18th century, can be accessed even without a ticket to the castle. There is a fountain at the centre with a large sculpture of Neptune, the sea god. 

Garden on the rear side of the State Castle

On the other side of the castle is the Cloak Bridge, which could be assessed from the interior of the castle as well as from the town border. In my previous post, I described the nice view that I enjoyed from the top of the Cloak Bridge. This three-storeyed arched bridge connected the courtyards of the castle. Below the bridge, there are small, winding roads that I took to walk along both  sides of the flowing river. 

View of the Cloak Bridge

The town square of Cesky Krumlov is a pretty, central square that was easy to access. Even on a cloudy day, there were people chatting inside coffee shops situated close to the square. A mix of Renaissance and Baroque homes set aside winding streets leading to the square was an impressive sight. The town also features a Marian plague column.

Town square  of Cesky Krumlov

On the way to the Monastery of the Minorites, which was situated not far from the entrance of the State Castle, I saw artisan shops having a historical importance. The shops are not open at all times during the day, so some planning is required to watch a blacksmith or other artisans at work. There was also interesting architecture in the street of Latrán, where I stopped to admire. 

Artisan shops in the streets of Cesky Krumlov

There are always plenty of activities at the monastery, but I wasn't lucky to witness any of them. At the time of Christmas and even later, village fairs are common. This medieval monastery complex was built in mid-14th century and is situated slightly away from the streets of the town. A visit to this place gave me information about the history of the monastery and also the town itself. After the monastery, I went further north towards one of the bridges hosting the Budweis Gate (Budějovická brána), which is the only survivor among the nine entrances to the town. 

The Monastery of the Minorites

Shops near the castle gates were entertaining tourists, and I was particularly interested in a candy shop where they sold candies resembling small rocks (that kindled the geologist in me). Nearby was a shop selling gemstones, and I saw a polished greenish glass called Moldavite formed by a meteoritic impact in southern Germany. As it was a rare gem, many tourists were interested in buying a piece.

There was always something to see on the roads of this town. Small coffee shops and vintage restaurants stacked side by side on the cobbled streets, shops selling wooden toys and puppets, occasionally passing over bridges crossing the river, frequent church bells from the main church - all these have made my day. A rare sight was a small library in the form of a telephone booth, from which people could take out books for leisurely reading. In the modern world, everything about this small town felt like going back in time. 

Something that haunted me slightly was how a few bears, that were kept for public viewing near the entrance of the castle, were treated. As bears were part of the castle's history, it made sense to have a display, but what revolted me was how malnourished and unhappy the bears looked. This killed my mood for sure, but apart from that, every part of the town gave me good spirits.

Once I saw this small town, I could understand why many of my European friends wanted to visit here. With its medieval feel and European charm, Cesky Krumlov will remain on my list of favorites and will continue to be a dream place for many people to explore and leave them in good spirits, like me 💖

Through the winding, cobbled streets of Cesky Krumlov

After a break, in this new post, I am writing about my experience while visiting the pretty, but not quite popular township of Cesky Krumlov (Český Krumlov) in the Czech Republic. Situated in the South Bohemian region on the shores of the Vltava River, this place will definitely be one of your favorites in Europe upon visiting!

There are not many highlights in this town, unlike Prague for example, but it gives much more a wholesome experience of a Czech town than any other. All the important tourist spots can be seen in one day, but can you feel the essence of this elegant, little town already? 

The main highlights include the Cesky Krumlov Castle, the Cloak Bridge, the Monastery of the Minorites, and the St. Vitus Church. These spots will be described in detail in my next post, while this post will give you a feeling of this vintage townscape.

The best feeling that I got during my trip to this town was that of relaxation. There are a large number of old, cobbled streets spread around that I and my friends explored with ease. Strolling around early in the morning when not many tourists are around, having a nice coffee at one of these small cafes in a corner while not bothered about time- these constitute my idea of travel. Due to this reason, visiting Cesky Krumlov turned out to be more like a relaxing break for me.

View of the Castle Tower from one of the streets

The river Vltava meanders throughout beneath the town. Towards the north-western side of the town, we crossed the river and could see the Cloak Bridge a few meters away. I particularly liked this small bridge that took us to the larger Cloak Bridge because we could see the river slowly brushing aside the basement rocks of the town, on top of which all the roofed buildings are neatly stacked.  

View of the town from the bridge on the way to the Cloak Bridge

The Cesky Krumlov Castle constitutes a large area with multiple buildings and courtyards. Giving glimpses of Renaissance and Baroque architecture prevalent in the 17th century, the different tours across the various buildings of the castle are recommended to understand the historical background of this town. Apart from this, the castle gives stunning views of the town from a different perspective! 

View of the town from one of the viewing terraces of the castle

The most interesting historical site is the castle itself, from which you can see the St. Vitus Church and other important buildings already from far. The Castle Tower, situated on the other end of the castle offers a view from even higher up if you are ready to climb some stairs up the tower. 

View of the St. Vitus Church from the Cesky Krumlov Castle

There are a variety of things to do in the town, and I would suggest staying in this charming town for two days to experience the nightlife here as well, apart from the tourist spots. This small town is more vibrant during late evenings, and the cobbled streets are full of people talking and drinking. There are multiple choices for tasting traditional food, which is also cheaper when compared to Prague. I love different varieties of soups from the country, so this was my chance to try my favorite ones!

Traditional soup with bread served as a bowl

A traditional restaurant that I found as interesting in the old town is Krčma šatlava, which blends with the mood of the winding, cobbled streets, and the dim yellow lighted by numerous hanging lanterns outside. Apart from this restaurant where having a wholesome dinner lifts your mood completely, there are also cafes at different spots in this old town, where you can enjoy a nice coffee on a typical afternoon. 

The interiors of an old town restaurant Krčma šatlava

The traditional buildings of Lofou village in Cyprus

 

In my previous post on my visit to the Lofou village in Cyprus, I mentioned that all the houses in the village are made of essentially limestone. This limestone was gathered from the surroundings by shepherds years ago for building up their houses as this was the only easily available rock material, apart from mud and clay. Giving the impression of an amphitheater, and situated in between and hidden by surrounding carbonate hills, no wonder this village is listed by UNESCO as an architecturally important village.

A street lined by neighbouring houses with limestone walls

The next day, while roaming around the streets, I saw a local church (Church of Chrysolofitissa) and a meeting place that is likely for tourists. The church has a few interesting murals and an influence from Gothic art. There were many abandoned houses and some spots that looked like archeological sites. It is to be recalled that people have lived here since the Bronze Age. This village is not much explored by tourists, and I guess that in a few years, this place will be known for its crude beauty. More than the beauty, I loved it that the village has maintained its traditional homes with wooden balconies.

Along the main street and a few meters away from the church stood one or two coffee shops and a souvenir shop. The shop owners were just beginning to open their shops and were looking in my direction quizzically. Of course, I look out of place to them! I sat down on a chair in one of the coffee shops, ordered coffee, and looked around. One of the two coffee drinkers started to talk in a friendly manner (it is impressive how good people here are in English!), and at some point was trying to be very helpful in suggesting to me ways to reach the city later that day. Limassol is the closest one, and reaching there would be by bus, which runs from the village only three times a day, or by taxi. All the people there were very warm towards me, and in the beginning, I was quite reluctant to respond. This is common among solo travellers to be cautious. Everything turned out to be good in the end, and they both bought a coffee and some cookies for me from the shop saying that I am their first acquaintance from India.

The next interesting sight was the local school, which is an example of neoclassical architecture, located away from the main part of the village. On my way back stood the home of the schoolmaster, with a name board, which looked quite interesting to me; I love these small details! I could not visit the Olive mill museum, but I have heard that they show the history of the village and show a collection of folkloric items. 

The schoolmaster's house near to the local school of Lofou

One important detail that is related to everything in Lofou is the abundance of cats, stray or pet ones. This is a common feature in the whole of Cyprus as well. In Lofou, I felt that even the stray cats were looked after really well jointly by groups of surrounding families. Small kittens on my way around the village piqued my interest and they entertained me until the end of the street. It seems that they are aware of their territories! 

My next visit was to a local wine shop, which is known to be the only shop having a large selection of Cypriot wines- Agrovino wine bar. This bar is located in the other side of the village, slightly away from all the main attractions. I loved the interior of the wine bar!💓

Sunset view of Lofou village and the surrounding carbonate hills

A small thunderstorm was on the horizon, so I opted for a taxi later even though it was not cheap. As the taxi had to come from Limassol to pick me up, the ride did not turn out to be the cheapest but surely more adventurous! The rain was pouring in heavily and I could barely see outside as the taxi winded its way down the carbonate platforms on the way to Limassol. From there, I got on an air-conditioned coach bus that drove to Paphos, one of the main cities in Cyprus. I came to know then that these buses run many times during the day covering the major cities- Paphos, Limassol, Larnaca, and Nicosia. 

My few days in Cyprus were initially planned to be spent in Paphos and Larnaca, but a few suggestions over internet took me here, as I wanted to experience the feeling of staying in a traditional village. After spending two weeks travelling over Cyprus as part of a geological field trip and holidays after that, this village was my best choice of them all, as I remember every nook and corner along its winding streets and its striking panorama!

How living in a foreign land matters- an experience

Living in a new country on your own is something to experience once in your lifetime. With everyone you know thinking that you are having the best time of your life, you might be going through a feat on your own by coping with the culture of the place, its rules and regulations, and most importantly, finding new connections.

Living on my own has helped me jump out of my comfort zone and enjoy my freedom, which has made me find a lot about myself. When you start to appreciate yourself, you will even be able to celebrate your own birthday alone!

At some point in life, everyone goes through a phase of anxiety and trauma that hits them in varying degrees and angles. Me, coming from a foreign land, found my first few years very challenging to adapt to the central European culture. Though I appreciate the idea of more personal space compared to what I had in India, my home country, connecting with people required tremendous effort from my side, which wasn't easy and not one of my memorable moments. When going through tough times, I realized that there was no one noticing my struggles, as if almost invisible. Being generally shy to ask for help, I thought of helping myself out by doing small fun things alone.

At this point, on one fine day, I decided to embrace the immense personal space that I had to explore. I started by taking short visits and hikes across Switzerland, where I lived, which made me discover the immense beauty of the place in a new light. It was scary at first for a foreigner like me, who was not used to navigating everything in my life on my own, to put a foot forward. Anxiety soared many times, leading me to cancel plans by intentionally finding reasons. But eventually, I realized that I was enjoying my own company, by doing fun activities and learning from mistakes. This new confidence even made me more productive in my research. 

It all starts with pursuing what you love to do, and deciding what you want to do. Making decisions can be scary, even making a step forward for a coffee or a hike outside, but if you do it once, you find the utmost fulfillment. 

In the end, everyone has a story, with each writing style different from the other. I share mine with the hope that someone else finds theirs!

Embracing the art of authenticity: a personal journey

 

Living in a world that demands to be successful and popular, I have most of the time chosen to navigate life with a different compass. For that, it has always been important to view life with a different eye. While my profession demands adherence to facts and logic, most of the places that I have visited have been bits and pieces of my never-ending poem. 

Travel, for me, is not just about visiting destinations but about immersing myself in their essence. Take for instance, my travel to Prague. Instead of preparing for the journey by looking up video reels that say about 'ten things to do in Prague', I plundered over my interests. Each detail meticulously researched, and every corner explored with curiosity, the travel itinerary had everything I wanted including time for spontaneous plans, to eat a Trdelník (chimney cake) for instance. After I left the place, I was quite sure that I missed an important or highly recommended landmark, but the true essence of the place lingered in my mind, thus validating my approach in the end. 

From my own travel experiences, I have come to realize the importance of embracing individuality when crafting one's journey.  When one wants to travel somewhere and plans what to do, it is always good to think how another person in the same position might be thinking the same way when visiting your homeland. A European colleague of mine had asked me which places are interesting in Kerala, my homeland in India, if she is visiting. I gave this some thought. Clearly, a journey on a touristy houseboat along the backwaters of Kerala, though appealing to many others, might be too artificial for her. Experiencing the monsoon in the rainforests along the Western Ghats mountain range would definitely be interesting. In the end, it took me so much time to answer what would be interesting for her to do in Kerala, even though Kerala is one of the most beautiful places I know. This was also a reminder for me to remember when I travel that true exploration lies not in ticking off the 'must-see' sights, but in maintaining meaningful connections with the places that I visit.

Due to these reasons, I firmly believe in the power of the individual mind and its perspectives. Whether through travel, art or any creative endeavor, every interest is subjective, and every decision is connected. Though I am writing a blog for the world to see and be influenced, I think following my mind and maintaining my own style is the best way to convey ideas to the world. A unique voice and lens matter. In the end, it is all about not following the crowd, and having a signature of your own. There lies the influence.

Long hikes in the Zermatt region of Switzerland

 

During the time I lived in Switzerland, going out for hikes was a habit to freshen up my body and mind. So far, the hikes around Zermatt that is situated in the southern part of Switzerland and famous for the impressive mountain Matterhorn, have been my favorite. A few of the long hikes that I did in that region were quite impressive, and are worth spending a day or two just for this purpose. There are a number of hiking trails categorized in terms of difficulty listed in the Zermatt website (www.zermatt.ch), but I think most of us like to make personal choices irrespective of the detailed descriptions available in the websites. In this post, I suggest a few challenging and fruitful hikes that can be done in the Zermatt region.

Relaxing near the restaurant-hut in Fluhalp after a day's hike; Matterhorn in the background

The hike from the village of Täsch all the way to Fluhalp is a very impressive and challenging hike, especially for people like me who are experienced only with hikes of medium levels of difficulty. The entire hike that I did with a group is a combined one (Täschalp-Fluhalp, Nr. 46 and hike to the Täsch Hut, Nr. 45 in the website). Our group ascended from the village of Täsch, crossed Täschalp and the Pfulwe Pass and finally reached Fluhalp after roughly eight hours of hiking.  One should keep in mind that there might not be possible spots to take rest if the topmost portion of the Pass is covered in snow.

Taking a break while hiking across the Pfulwe Mountain Pass

Overall, the hike is a gradual but steep ascent from Täsch (ascent of around 1 km), and therefore is important to maintain your pace during the entire hike. In terms of technique, crossing the Pfulwe Pass was challenging for me due to thick layers of snow that slowed down my pace, and also scared me at times when my legs went all the way down the snow to get wet. At this point, sturdy alpine hiking shoes are necessarily required for crossing the Pass. Just after reaching the top of Pfulwe, a glimpse of Matterhorn towering over the other mountains is visible. The last part of the hike involves a comparatively easier trail until Fluhalp, where the mountain hut/restaurant (https://www.fluhalp.swiss) is located. 

View of Matterhorn after crossing the Pfulwe Pass

Fluhalp is a picturesque mountain stop that gives the experience of a postcard landscape. This stop is accessible also by cable car on the other side of the mountain (Zermatt to Sunnegga or Blauherd), after which a short hike takes you to the mountain hut. As many tourists go here to enjoy the view of Matterhorn and some local food, the mountain hut/restaurant here has all the necessary amenities for a good stay overnight or for a day more. There are even nice showers, but you get hot water only for a few minutes! However, the fresh alpine water gives a great feeling especially after a good hike 😀. The place is nice to enjoy in summer, but due to increasing popularity among tourists, I would suggest to visit the place either in early or late summer.

View of Matterhorn from lake Stellisee, close to Fluhalp mountain restaurant

Yet another time, I decided to hike all the way to Täsch Hut (Hike to the Täsch Hut, Nr. 45), of which not many pictures were taken during the hike. However, the hike up to the hut gives a nice experience of alpine wildlife. A stay in the hut is recommended and can be reserved beforehand (https://www.taeschhuette.ch), but it is important to know that the place has amenities that you normally expect from a mountain hut. Though a view of Matterhorn is hindered from the hut, even larger mountains such as Weisshorn (4505 m) are visible. Due to the close experience with nature, I recommend taking this hike for a stay in the alps.

View of the mountains from Täschalp

Hike to the Hörnli hut, also known as the Hörnli Trail (Nr. 27 in the Zermatt website) is comparatively short in distance, but challenging at the same time. This one is strictly an alpine trail, which requires the use of hands at times to find the way through and courage not to look down at some tight spots that give you the feeling of hanging over a cliff. The hike starts from Schwarzsee, reachable also by cable car.

The ascent from Schwarzsee to Hörnli

The Hörnli hut/restaurant is situated at 3,260 m above sea level, and gives you a close view of the towering Matterhorn. Most of the hikers who stay at this base camp also have their next day planned to climb up the Matterhorn peak. Due to the steepness of the peak, it is necessary to be experienced in rock climbing. However, reaching until the basecamp is something to be proud and happy about!

View of Matterhorn at 3,260 m a.s.l

There are many more interesting hikes and places in the area, which are definitely not possible to be covered in limited time. However, I would encourage anyone to do and see as much as they can, as this place will surely remain in one's memories for a long time!

Short-day hikes in Zermatt, Switzerland: getting the best of Matterhorn

 

In an earlier post, I described my visit to Zermatt in Switzerland and the iconic mountain known as Matterhorn that one should not miss. Zermatt is definitely an ideal tourist destination when one is visiting Switzerland! I usually like to go to a place as a traveler rather than as a tourist, and the features of a place while traveling are better noticed when hiking. 

This time, I will be suggesting some hiking trails around Zermatt that are easy to moderately doable, and enable one to enjoy viewing Matterhorn at the same time! 

The first tip is to check the weather; one may even miss having a full view of Matterhorn even on a slightly cloudy day!

One of the hiking trails that gives a nice view of Matterhorn

A hike that I enjoyed a lot was the trail that starts from Zermatt and ends at Lake Schwarzsee. The elevation gain is around 1 km, but can still be done with intervals in between or even with a steady go! In the end, it is about how much you love the hike and surely one will, because of the amazing views this one offers!

Lake Schwarzsee with a view of Matterhorn

 

One can also take this hiking trail the other way around, that is to descend all the way to Zermatt. This is possible as there are cable cars that go directly from Zermatt to Schwarzsee. No matter what, one will be able to reach the destination by lunchtime. 

Lunch break with a view of the Lake Schwarzsee 

Yet another hiking trail that I liked is called the 'Mark Twain Trail' which turned out to be a fairly easy and short one. If one has less time in Zermatt and still wants to enjoy the best view of Matterhorn in a less crowded atmosphere, I would recommend taking this short hike to Riffelberg and enjoying the view of Matterhorn over lunch from the restaurant there. Of course, the restaurant up on top of Gornergrat, the highest accessible point close to Matterhorn, is the most people-recommended one, but I loved the restaurant on top of Riffelberg as more closer to nature.

The view of Matterhorn on the way from Riffelalp to Riffelberg

My favorite hike among the less strenuous hikes is the 'Five Lakes Walk', because it is a thematic one. Three of the lakes show a reflection of Matterhorn on a clear day and all of them provide nice views while relaxing for a break on their banks. Though it is an easy hike to visit the first three lakes that give splendid views of Matterhorn in the background, the sudden ascent to Lake Stellisee and finally to the cable car station Blauherd requires a medium level of fitness. If one has two days to spend in Zermatt and a sunny day to enjoy, this hike would be the best thing to do! 

Reflection of Matterhorn captured over Lake Grindjisee

Many more easy to medium-level hiking trails are available on the website of Zermatt (https://www.zermatt.ch), out of which I pointed out my personal favorites. There are also interesting and more challenging hikes as well as traveler tips to get the best out of visiting Zermatt that I will be explaining in detail in my upcoming posts. Stay tuned!