Kawaguchi Asama Shrine: A peaceful retreat in the Yamanashi Prefecture

 

During my travels in Japan, the area that I loved the most was the Fuji Highlands in Yamanashi Prefecture. Apart from being a tourist destination, there were plenty of ways to enjoy tranquility and solitude in lush green environments with a spiritual atmosphere.  One good example was the Kawaguchi Asama Shrine, located close to  Lake Kawaguchiko.

Like many other tourists, my aim was to get a good view of Mt Fuji from a spot accessible from this shrine, and I had therefore underestimated the beauty of the place itself.

Kawaguchi Asama Shrine and its giant cedars

The entrance to the shrine can be reached after a 20- minute walk from the nearest bus stop at the Kawaguchiko Music Forest Museum. This stop is part of the Red Sightseeing Bus route, one of the most popular tourist routes in the Kawaguchi area. Still, there were very few tourists at the shrine, and I wondered why- this place has everything to offer if you are looking for a calm and serene atmosphere.

Entrance to the Kawaguchi Asama Shrine

The giant Japanese cedar trees around the shrine were the highlight. A few of them are over 1,200 years old! Two trees growing side by side (futahashira) are believed to bring luck in matchmaking. As one of the many 'Asama' shrines dedicated to Mt. Fuji, the deity worshipped here represents the goddess of volcanoes and Mt. Fuji. This site is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site as a part of "Fujisan, sacred place and source of artistic inspiration". An annual festival is celebrated here, which I missed during my visit. Nevertheless, I preferred the quiet creaking of the ancient cedars than any celebration at that moment.

After spending some time at the shrine, I began my ascent to Tenku-no Torii, which offers a beautiful view of Mt. Fuji. I had discovered this spot on Instagram, and a few minutes into the climb, I realized that many influencers had probably driven up the hill instead. However, this was the closest I had been to nature in the past few days, so I gave it my all.  The weather was ideal after the rain, and my only concern was that clouds might block the view of Mt. Fuji from the top.

The start of the trail from the shrine

The path was slightly tiring and slippery, especially since I wasn't well prepared for a post-rain hike. Still the view of Mt. Fuji from the top was something I absolutely didn't want to miss—especially on a day with a clear sky! There were no cedar trees along the way, which disappointed me a little. I saw a few tourists here and there, and certainly some at the top, but far fewer than I had expected. The relative quiet made the climb more enjoyable.

Trail to the Tenku-no Torii

After about 30 to 45 minutes, I reached the Torii gates, which have been a place of worship since 2019. No wonder it's called Tenku-no Torii, meaning "Torii gate in the sky". From here, one can get a picturesque view of Mt. Fuji framed perfectly through the Torii gates. The aim behind this spot was to build a place of worship at a distance (yohai), reached through climbing (tohai) and spiritual training (shugen). I loved this aspect of the shrine—the notion that ultimate worship could be attained through effort and connection with nature.

Tenku-no Torii with Mt. Fuji in the background

Of course, once you reach the top, a picture of yourself with this perfect backdrop is mandatory! 😉 Although I was slightly annoyed that access to this "private land" required a fee, I was ultimately happy—it was well worth the visit. I was lucky to see Mt. Fuji in all its glory before the clouds swallowed the scene a little later. I even managed to capture a picture of the towering Torii with Mt. Fuji in the background—just like a Windows wallpaper 💗

After hiking back down the trail, I spent some time by the small garden near the shrine (not a Zen garden—I always cringe when influencers call it that!). I even considered staying longer, as this turned out to be the best part of my time in Yamanashi Prefecture. 

While most tourists come here just for the view of Mt. Fuji, I felt something more. This place wasn't even on my bucket list, but it ended up becoming one of my most memorable experiences.

Long hikes in the Zermatt region of Switzerland

 

During the time I lived in Switzerland, going out for hikes was a habit to freshen up my body and mind. So far, the hikes around Zermatt that is situated in the southern part of Switzerland and famous for the impressive mountain Matterhorn, have been my favorite. A few of the long hikes that I did in that region were quite impressive, and are worth spending a day or two just for this purpose. There are a number of hiking trails categorized in terms of difficulty listed in the Zermatt website (www.zermatt.ch), but I think most of us like to make personal choices irrespective of the detailed descriptions available in the websites. In this post, I suggest a few challenging and fruitful hikes that can be done in the Zermatt region.

Relaxing near the restaurant-hut in Fluhalp after a day's hike; Matterhorn in the background

The hike from the village of Täsch all the way to Fluhalp is a very impressive and challenging hike, especially for people like me who are experienced only with hikes of medium levels of difficulty. The entire hike that I did with a group is a combined one (Täschalp-Fluhalp, Nr. 46 and hike to the Täsch Hut, Nr. 45 in the website). Our group ascended from the village of Täsch, crossed Täschalp and the Pfulwe Pass and finally reached Fluhalp after roughly eight hours of hiking.  One should keep in mind that there might not be possible spots to take rest if the topmost portion of the Pass is covered in snow.

Taking a break while hiking across the Pfulwe Mountain Pass

Overall, the hike is a gradual but steep ascent from Täsch (ascent of around 1 km), and therefore is important to maintain your pace during the entire hike. In terms of technique, crossing the Pfulwe Pass was challenging for me due to thick layers of snow that slowed down my pace, and also scared me at times when my legs went all the way down the snow to get wet. At this point, sturdy alpine hiking shoes are necessarily required for crossing the Pass. Just after reaching the top of Pfulwe, a glimpse of Matterhorn towering over the other mountains is visible. The last part of the hike involves a comparatively easier trail until Fluhalp, where the mountain hut/restaurant (https://www.fluhalp.swiss) is located. 

View of Matterhorn after crossing the Pfulwe Pass

Fluhalp is a picturesque mountain stop that gives the experience of a postcard landscape. This stop is accessible also by cable car on the other side of the mountain (Zermatt to Sunnegga or Blauherd), after which a short hike takes you to the mountain hut. As many tourists go here to enjoy the view of Matterhorn and some local food, the mountain hut/restaurant here has all the necessary amenities for a good stay overnight or for a day more. There are even nice showers, but you get hot water only for a few minutes! However, the fresh alpine water gives a great feeling especially after a good hike 😀. The place is nice to enjoy in summer, but due to increasing popularity among tourists, I would suggest to visit the place either in early or late summer.

View of Matterhorn from lake Stellisee, close to Fluhalp mountain restaurant

Yet another time, I decided to hike all the way to Täsch Hut (Hike to the Täsch Hut, Nr. 45), of which not many pictures were taken during the hike. However, the hike up to the hut gives a nice experience of alpine wildlife. A stay in the hut is recommended and can be reserved beforehand (https://www.taeschhuette.ch), but it is important to know that the place has amenities that you normally expect from a mountain hut. Though a view of Matterhorn is hindered from the hut, even larger mountains such as Weisshorn (4505 m) are visible. Due to the close experience with nature, I recommend taking this hike for a stay in the alps.

View of the mountains from Täschalp

Hike to the Hörnli hut, also known as the Hörnli Trail (Nr. 27 in the Zermatt website) is comparatively short in distance, but challenging at the same time. This one is strictly an alpine trail, which requires the use of hands at times to find the way through and courage not to look down at some tight spots that give you the feeling of hanging over a cliff. The hike starts from Schwarzsee, reachable also by cable car.

The ascent from Schwarzsee to Hörnli

The Hörnli hut/restaurant is situated at 3,260 m above sea level, and gives you a close view of the towering Matterhorn. Most of the hikers who stay at this base camp also have their next day planned to climb up the Matterhorn peak. Due to the steepness of the peak, it is necessary to be experienced in rock climbing. However, reaching until the basecamp is something to be proud and happy about!

View of Matterhorn at 3,260 m a.s.l

There are many more interesting hikes and places in the area, which are definitely not possible to be covered in limited time. However, I would encourage anyone to do and see as much as they can, as this place will surely remain in one's memories for a long time!